Licorice Root Extract
Licorice Root Extract for Brightening and Soothing: Complete Ingredient Guide
Licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra), known in India as mulethi, is one of the best-evidenced botanical brighteners. Its compound glabridin inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme that drives melanin, helping fade UV tan and even out tone, while glycyrrhizin and related compounds are anti-inflammatory, calming the redness triggered by sun and hard water. It is non-comedogenic, gentle, and works on both pigmentation and irritation at once. Mamaearth uses Licorice in its Ubtan and brightening formulas.
At a Glance: Licorice Root Extract
| Attribute | Detail |
|---|---|
| INCI Name | Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice / Mulethi) Root Extract |
| Category | Skin Botanical — Brightener & Soother |
| Primary Functions | Brightening, soothing redness, antioxidant support |
| Key Actives | Glabridin (tyrosinase inhibitor), glycyrrhizin / glycyrrhetinic acid, liquiritin |
| Best For | UV tan, hyperpigmentation, redness and hard-water irritation |
| Photosensitizing Risk | None reported |
| Properties | Non-comedogenic. Very low irritation risk. Suitable for most skin types. |
| Evidence Level | Glabridin tyrosinase inhibition well supported; anti-inflammatory soothing well supported |
What Is Licorice Root Extract and Why Does It Work?
Licorice root extract comes from Glycyrrhiza glabra (mulethi), long used in Ayurveda and now well studied in skincare. It is unusual because it tackles two concerns at once, pigmentation and redness, through different compounds.
Its star compound, glabridin, inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme that produces melanin, which helps fade tan and dark spots and even out tone. At the same time, glycyrrhizin and glycyrrhetinic acid are anti-inflammatory, calming the redness and irritation caused by UV and hard water. This dual brightening-plus-soothing action, in a gentle, non-comedogenic botanical, is what makes licorice so valued.
Functional Role in Skincare
| Functional Role | Category | Sub-role Mechanism |
|---|---|---|
| Tyrosinase Inhibitor | Pigment Control | Glabridin inhibits tyrosinase, slowing excess melanin to fade tan and dark spots. |
| Anti-Inflammatory | Soothing | Glycyrrhizin and glycyrrhetinic acid calm redness and irritation. |
| Antioxidant | Defence | Helps neutralise free radicals that worsen pigmentation and dullness. |
Skin Concerns Licorice Targets
| Skin Concern | Root Cause Addressed | How Licorice Helps |
|---|---|---|
| UV Tan & Pigmentation | UV-driven excess melanin darkening the skin. | Glabridin inhibits tyrosinase, helping fade tan and even tone. |
| Hard-Water Redness | Irritation and inflammation from harsh water and environment. | Anti-inflammatory compounds calm redness and soothe the skin. |
| Uneven, Dull Tone | Patchy pigment and oxidative stress. | Brightening plus antioxidant action supports a clearer, more even look. |
Why Licorice Suits Indian Skin and Climate
High UV: Strong sun drives tanning and pigmentation. Licorice's glabridin targets the pigment enzyme, supporting even tone, alongside daily sunscreen.
Hard-Water Cities: Hard water can leave skin red and irritated. Licorice's anti-inflammatory action soothes this redness, a dual benefit few brighteners offer.
Gentle Brightening: Licorice is non-comedogenic and calming, a gentle route to brightening for sensitive, pigment-prone Indian skin.
How Licorice Works: Three Mechanisms
1. Tyrosinase Inhibition (Brightening)
Glabridin, licorice's key compound, inhibits tyrosinase, the rate-limiting enzyme in melanin production, helping fade tan and dark spots and even out tone.
2. Anti-Inflammatory Soothing
Glycyrrhizin and glycyrrhetinic acid calm inflammation, easing the redness and irritation caused by UV and hard water, the soothing half of licorice's dual action.
3. Antioxidant Defence
Licorice compounds help neutralise free radicals, supporting brighter, healthier-looking skin and protecting against oxidative dullness.
The Evidence: What Research Shows
| Property | Evidence Base | What It Means for Skin |
|---|---|---|
| Glabridin Tyrosinase Inhibition | In vitro studies + some clinical (pigmentation) | Well-supported brightening and pigment-control action. |
| Anti-Inflammatory Action | Documented for glycyrrhizin / glycyrrhetinic acid | Reliable soothing of redness and irritation. |
| Antioxidant Support | Laboratory studies | Helps limit oxidative stress linked to pigmentation and dullness. |
Who Should Use Licorice: Skin Type Guide
| Primary Goal | Skin Type | Recommended Approach |
|---|---|---|
| Brighten & de-tan | All types, pigment-prone | Cleanse with the Ubtan Face Wash (with Licorice). |
| Target dark spots | Pigmentation, blemish-prone | Use the Bye Bye Blemishes Face Cream (Licorice + Mulberry + Vitamin C). |
| Soothe & support barrier | Sensitive, redness-prone | Pair with the barrier-supporting Chia range. |
How to Use Licorice: Application Guide
Beginner
Starting out
Intermediate
Building a routine
Advanced
Targeting tone
Application Rules
AM/PM Suitability: Safe morning and night; no photosensitivity.
Sunscreen Is Essential: Brightening only holds if new UV pigment is prevented, so daily SPF is a must.
Patch Testing: Low irritation risk; patch test if reactive.
What Licorice Cannot Do
It is not an instant whitener: Licorice fades pigment gradually. Visible brightening and de-tan take weeks to months of consistent use.
It is not a medical anti-inflammatory drug: Its soothing action calms everyday redness, but it does not treat medical skin conditions; see a dermatologist for those.
It works best in a complete formula: Licorice is often combined with other brighteners (vitamin C, mulberry); results come from the full routine and consistency.
It does not replace sunscreen: Ongoing UV undoes brightening, so daily SPF is non-negotiable.
Licorice Compatibility: Pairing Guide
| Ingredient | Compatibility | Benefit of Pairing |
|---|---|---|
| Vitamin C | Highly Recommended | Stacks antioxidant and brightening action for a more even tone. |
| Mulberry Extract | Highly Recommended | Another tyrosinase-targeting botanical; together they boost brightening. |
| Niacinamide | Highly Recommended | Supports the barrier and helps limit pigment transfer. |
| Sunscreen | Essential | Prevents the new UV pigment that would undo brightening. |
Frequently Asked Questions About Licorice Root Extract
A: Its compound glabridin inhibits the pigment enzyme tyrosinase to brighten and fade tan, while glycyrrhizin soothes redness, so it brightens and calms at the same time.
A: Yes. Glabridin's tyrosinase inhibition is well supported and targets UV tan, dark spots, and uneven tone.
A: Yes. Its glycyrrhizin and glycyrrhetinic acid are anti-inflammatory and help calm redness and irritation.
A: Brightening is gradual, expect weeks to months of consistent use, paired with daily sunscreen.
A: It is gentle, non-comedogenic, and soothing, which suits sensitive skin, but patch test if reactive.
How to Find the Right Licorice Products for You (Mamaearth)
Mamaearth uses Licorice (mulethi) in its brightening and tan-removal formulas, combined with other actives for an even, calm complexion, free from harmful chemicals.
For Brightening & De-Tan Cleansing:
Mamaearth Ubtan Face Wash (with Licorice, Turmeric & Saffron) — Cleanses while helping repair sun damage and remove tan.
For Dark Spots & Pigmentation:
Mamaearth Bye Bye Blemishes Face Cream — Licorice with Mulberry and Vitamin C to target pigmentation.
For Barrier Support & Soothing:
Mamaearth Chia Range — Ceramide-rich, soothing care to pair with licorice brightening.
Note: Exact ingredient lists vary by product; check the label for licorice content. All Mamaearth products are Made Safe certified and toxin-free; confirm formulations and pricing on the official Mamaearth website.
References
- Glabridin tyrosinase inhibition: Glabridin, the key compound in licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra) root, inhibits tyrosinase and melanin production, supporting its well-documented brightening and pigment-control action.
- Anti-inflammatory action: Glycyrrhizin and glycyrrhetinic acid from licorice have documented anti-inflammatory effects, the basis of licorice's soothing, redness-calming benefit.
